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touron macaroons, house and home Pariès Adam, Saint Jean de Luz, taste of Thursday, February 22, 2007

When I was little, when my grandmother and I had finished walking and shopping in downtown Bayonne, we passed through the Rue du Port Neuf and the Rue Victor Hugo to lead invariably on the Freedom Square, where, along the Nive, was the bus stop that took us back home. While the sun was sinking, I watched again with a bit of trouble, beyond the confluence of the Nive in the Adour, the stone arches of the Pont Saint Esprit. I did not appreciate this perspective, so majestic it is, because in addition to those for the melancholy of the day, the Pont Saint-Esprit was for me the path that led to the station, the place where I was cursed leave, in a wrenching, this happy time of my vacation.
From the time I only remember a few tearooms Rue du Port Neuf, and this is actually until 2002 that the house Pariès it is installed. However, I already knew the boxes so characteristic of mouchous , designed by Ramiro Arrue , if I look good, I can still see the image of one of these boxes, set on the big red Formica table in the kitchen of my grandmother, as open and available to my greed. I believe that mouchous were a gift rather than classical were overnight guests, but on that, nothing is quite certain.
So it's not quite by accident that we stopped at home Pariès in St. Jean de Luz, on that day, although my memory of the moment, do not back me all these good reasons to stop there. This day of February, the weather was frankly summer, and we did not want to lock ourselves in a restaurant for lunch. Unfortunately, the seafront with its Casino de la Pergola designed by Mallet Stevens in 1927-28 but slightly modified since apparently it does not leave much room for small gargottes where you can enjoy a salad or grilled fish, go on the rear side of the harbor, and we could not forego the temptation to gaze at the clear blue sea.
A little frustrated so we are determined to do without breakfast, and to compensate for this frustration, we bring some sweets to enjoy on the sand.
We must recognize that coming to Saint Jean de Luz, in addition to the pleasure of the walk, we had another idea behind the head. We did not in fact failed to read the file Regal magazine devoted an issue to craft buttons in France, this reading we suggest that the next time we would stay in Biarritz, where we knew our love not would bring us sooner or later, we could make a short stop at home Adam sells buttons in such pretty boxes.
Finally, in the afternoon on the beach of Saint Jean de Luz with Patoumi under a scorching sun, was the occasion, among other pleasures, to compare the talents of these two houses.
To begin, Basque cake. The first one I tasted is the home Pariès. A crust that is both firm and soft, crisp and well sanded without starting to smithereens, contains a creamy, firm without being dry, the smooth almond taste, not too quiet nor too pronounced. The cream is great, all is harmonious between crunchy and creamy, not too sweet. I ask nothing else to a Basque cake.
few minutes later, I tasted one of Adam's house. And then disappointment: I wanted to eat another home Pariès. The crust is good, no complaints. By cons cream is thick, somewhat pasty or gelatinous, and most importantly, there is the scam in the air. The picture speaks for itself, I say no more. Finally, it is perhaps a stroke of bad luck.
This time, the house Pariès so handily won the victory with his basque delicious cake.
second step, the nougat. I bought from Pariès of coconut nougat and nougat in Adam's lemon. From that side, the trend reversed dramatically: the coconut nougat is much, much too sweet, not least, I desperately seek the coconut but I do, on the nose with palate that sugar, and taste marzipan sweet.
However, the home of Adam stands up, the lemon taste is present, rather than hand side peel pulp, but the flavor then agrees fairly well with the almond flavor that is the basis of nougat . To my taste is all a bit too sweet though.
I note that with regard to the format, that of the house Pariès is twice as big, but the price report. However, I regret having to finish a great touron not good ...
Side nougat, so the prize goes without question to Adam's house, although this is not the best I've eaten, but this is perhaps the scent chosen.
Finally the buttons. Here there will be no winner: first the two are delicious, and secondly they are so different that they do not seem really comparable. The
mouchous (kiss in Basque) is a kind of white badge of rather similar to those made today, with two shells with almond, welded by marzipan nature. The biscuit is generally flexible, not crisp, yet not soft at all. It's mellow, it's based, the core of marzipan has this soft side and a little dusty good almond paste, not too sweet. I really like. However, it must be a fan of marzipan, I am, because otherwise I do not see how it would appeal. Small clarification: it's pretty consistent, you eat one, and that's good.
Macaroons Adam did not have much to do with the buttons of contemporary pastry. They consist of a single shell to the kernel, cooked on plate, then cracked and slightly curved top and flat bottom. When one crunches, it is exquisite: the shell is crisp, the heart perfectly soft and melting. The flavor of almond paste is not too present, so Patoumi who does not like marzipan loved it. Not too sweet, not the slightest bitterness, we could eat the box without even without realizing it. And with the coffee ... Yum.
I therefore conclude that the two houses worth a detour, and now I would know what to choose. But I forgot: there are still other specialties to taste ...

Posted by G.

Bilingual Catholic Spanish Wedding

Le May, Toulouse, dinner on Monday, February 19, 2007

Since the Church of St. Sernin down a sort of long slide that plunges into the depths of Toulouse, which can naturally follow the slope straight along Rue du Taur, then crossing straight on the Capitol Square, and then plunging into the Rue Saint Rome. If we are careful, follow the steps calmly sliding the line and can conduct, without it having to turn any obstacle or meet up ... external device. Who would be nimble and can not exercise a little distraction, it takes just an hour and some four kilometers to fail finally here, stopped by a bath, say ... exhaust.
Although quite ignorant of the geography of Toulouse, our steps we have fortunately stopped before the destination is not conducive to giving us the pleasures sought or taste of the festivities. This does not prevent us going strong forward along this slippery path in search of a restaurant on the evening of our arrival in the city after visiting the admirable Georges Labit museum.
I can not really say that the task of finding a good restaurant that night we was easy. The city seems reluctant to reveal its secrets on the delicate topic of gastronomy. No signs or no card is reached we enter into the eye, and it's not for lack of, once extracted from the axis of which I spoke a moment ago, shot some length in the streets at night .
If I remember three places where we have failed to eat, I will quote an Indian who had a fairly original card, featuring the never-seen me out of my stay in Kathmandu-dishes Nepal. But since we know that someone found a dead cockroach in the attitude of an Indian restaurant where we had more or less our habits (the India), we have some reluctance to eat Indian food elsewhere than 'at home, and Patoumi, whose memory does not fail, did not fail to remember, despite the damp cold of the night, this is important. The deterrent effect was immediate. Going through the city yet we were surprised to see us all Indian restaurants nearby had the same card, even more surprisingly, exactly the same description of the dishes and countries from which they originated. A single owner held it the monopoly of those restaurants where the menu was a factory-wholesale prices it so interesting that cooks lined up on these cards instead of creating them by themselves, I do not know . Anyway, this has, of that side, avoided unnecessary regret.
can not be said of the Korean restaurant (the Yo ) that we have crossed the church square of Dalbade. His menu has entice us with its bibimbab his bulgogi and sauteed, but mostly we despair because we have found the door closed the two nights of our stay.
Another disappointment, a Thai restaurant (the Baan Siam) , whose amiable smile of the waitress who did not dare tell us that our cause was hopeless, that its tantalizing restaurant was indeed full, n ' has failed to erase our regret at not having tasted their cuisine.
Eventually and not without hesitation, we ended up calling in May, tired of going in circles, and find ourselves tirelessly to get this up and slide with monotonous linearity began to tire our eyes, and especially our feet .
Although our two adventurers will love to be entered tired, hungry, or depressed, they came out smiling. Why?
The framework is quite warm, rather simple heterogeneous objects, posters and paintings adorn the walls. Waiters and waitresses are friendly, cheerful and efficient while remaining discreet. The toilets are clean, do not be huge but it lacks nothing (like soap and disposable hand towels). And above all: it's still frankly cheap.
dishes seemed very (too) classic on the map, and we were surprised because we had chosen our meals without much conviction. For my part, my choice was the Dos colin Provencal. Cooking Fish is perfect, just the right firmness and melting. His Provencal dressing is observed, thyme, bay leaves, olive oil to balance combining with chopped tomatoes. The surprise lies particularly in the accompaniment, billed as a carrot-broccoli puree and a little stewed endive. In truth, one as the other accompaniments of these left little to reveal their raw materials, and each is dominated by a bunch of different spices very smooth-I have unfortunately been unable to identify with precision. It seems that the cook who wears a name apparently it Middle Eastern or North African (?), has brought to her kitchen instead of the traditional French touch of home by making the plate truly original. The skewer of lamb with spices ... (Name of the cook) has chosen Patoumi, reveals marked and subtle flavors, also came, as it seemed, by there, and comes with the same support that my dish.
For dessert, the banana-chocolate tart , very classic, but someone has spilled food was left with pleasure in following the course. Unfortunately I swallowed his land with the contents of my glass of wine, So I can not say.
We left satiated and serene, ready for the ascent of the slide to reach our hotel behind the beautiful church of St. Sernin.

Le May, 4 Rue May, 31000 Toulouse 05 61 23 98 76
The Yo, 3 rue Henri Gorsse 31000 Toulouse 05 62 17 28 September
Baan Siam, 12 rue Maletache 31000 Toulouse May 1962 26 53 03

And India, 41 rue Saint-Georges 35000 Rennes to avoid each other in the dumps ... Posted by G.

Cost Of Alcohol Poisioning

L'atelier des Gourmets, Rennes, dinner on Tuesday, March 6, 2007

one who descends from the market Lices to rush into the street Nantes cheerful at the idea of discovering appetizing restaurants may be a bit put off at first, when his eyes crossed that will showcase the association Follereau which opens the prospect of Street. I wrote that in spite of myself of the window, and there is no longer correct. For it is truly a look that one meets when one looks at the front, an icy look, a look perfectly scandalous to say everything, that reminds you that in 2007 it is necessary that people are fighting against this disease completely what leprosy curable, then we should do for decades to hear about it, as the case of smallpox for example. If this appears to mention bad taste in a post dedicated to gastronomy, I would say that the real bad taste will be that will chicken or lamb vindaloo Roganjosh papillae on naive tourists who visited India a somewhat Ideal too, will have a look avoid crossing sembable those that I recall. This small moral lesson, it's not me who makes it, by virtue of chance in the world, the street itself, who pays attention to his surroundings. If I transcribe here is that it struck me whenever I passed by this stretch of road, and this may be more than the first time it was given me, it was not for this simple image, but the stark reality and tragedy of a few men crossed into the alleys of Varanasi.
A few yards away, in the same building, a stark contrast shakes you by crossing the front of the Guehennec . We never ate-although it is possible that the taste will be glad, for there are the peepers who are in distress: the flood of fake wood trim in shades of clear, pristine tablecloths desperately whose boss seems to oversee whiteness, watching your clumsy fingers ready to drop or spill crumbs stuck-uptight atmosphere, we consider the worst meaning of the subtitle tradition. Maybe one day on occasion, run out of ideas for a ticket, in a fit of recklessness, and G. Patoumi themselves and challenge the icy look and scarf sad lady, to taste the dishes sir.
Income on the other side, we meet successively Café Breton ( where we did not hesitate to use the raw pork to a pregnant woman , arguing that "it's the way it is eaten, Madame, "and where you are invited to go hardly serves to release the final table in exchange for free coffee counter-but since the owners have changed, and I know nothing new), the Canteen Delight (we had pretty good eating, long ago, but if we remember a previous post, it was she who was responsible for the abominable syndrome the-course dessert full, so it should return in moderation, to judge again a clear mind), the Refuge (Savoyard restaurant that seems never-season, who knows why); El Popoca (Tex-Mex restaurant with the memorable pina colada was somewhat marred by burritos too bourratos , and seems to have had recent problems with hygiene standards, according to some rumors). And then we arrive at the Atelier des Gourmets , our destination.
We had already tried to dine there in the past, but had been turned away for lack of free tables. Consequence of this disappointment of an evening, forgetting several months. Then a word from a colleague, I suggest that the excellent cook the Arsouille his high regard for his colleague the Workshop , Put the bug in his ear. So we booked, this is essential.
We ate three times, and the third was too much. The first two times, overcome with emotion of a romantic dinner, I found the first room where we were installed rather pleasant, like a little bistro campaign. The second time I had found almost cute: we were on the edge of the window, sitting at a table in a quiet corner overlooking the street through striped curtains. The third time we are shown the second room, and there simply is ugly: Suspensions conical home Confo reveal their yellowed bulb, flood light reveals the slightest comedo, and the grotesque number pooch sommelier-server can not find any shade to escape our eyes afflicted. I pass on the wallpaper, dishes, cook book on the table with revenues leave Patoumi appalled ("false Ginette Mathiot where we make meatballs stuffed bread).
As we know, we take an entrance, two dishes, one dessert, two glasses of wine and a San Pellegrino , but our pooch we still wonder how he will do his calculation on the menus! I want to retort that I do not care, it is his business, but I do not have that rude and I told him to do as it wishes. This remark had already been leveled at the last time, but at the end of the meal only, and ecstasy in which I had sunk greatly facilitated my indulgence. This time, not neighborhoods. Taking
plate.
For starters, we choose a vinaigrette shells and pork cheeks, white onions espuma. Remembering the pork cheeks of Holy Love, we can only be attempted, although the small note Ferran Adriesque title makes me a little wary.
It brings us a glass jar so Parfait. First disappointment thus: the jar itself is a substitute. Difficult to describe the dish: clams and pork cheeks are very small cubes, shows no difference in texture (which would have been interesting, mellowness somewhat elastic pork cheeks versus the soft firmness of the shell ), the whole bathed in a vinaigrette that gives the whole a very strong taste of ... brawn. Well, on the question of espuma ... From my high school English, I have not forgotten that espuma means foam or, if one wants to make a note of lightness, scum. I am a little disappointed that the leader here, who does not, moreover Cooking molecular sacrifice to this unbearable fashion styling is all we can do with a siphon espuma. When the effect in the mouth is a cream of onion without interest, its lightness is also very quickly faded under the onslaught of our bands, to mingle with the dressing in a liquid informs. I do not care much for this entry.
A word about wine: I chose to accompany this entry with a glass of Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil 2005 The Rouillières of Frederick Mabileau . So yes, it's fruity, it is drunk, but so is the St. Nicolas de Bourgueil that I feel I have ever had it anywhere else. In my opinion, a wine with no personality.
To avoid appearing to spit in the soup, I still want to say two words about our entry the last time. We did not notice the detail, and my memory betrays me, but it was kind of shredded crab with avocado cream, with a light lemon vinaigrette. The accompanying a spoon topped with a walnut egg of a fish whose name escapes us and a little arugula. Without the title and precision of memory, this may seem trivial, but in truth it was perfect. So what? The cook he lost his head, hand, or simply his cap? See more.
The dish: Patoumi chose Palette smoked pork, vanilla cauliflower, broth emulsified . Decidedly, he bought a trap and he did not call. Patoumi found and determined: the broth is bland then announced "very tasty", the palette is fibrous and dry, the whole totally lacking in freshness, too heavy and too dense, and finally the cauliflower was a little bitter. In summary: not pleasant in the mouth. The best on the plate, Patoumi note, these are the rats, perfectly cooked and very sweet, but hey, no need to go to a restaurant to eat rats.
I have decided to hand the cop fillet baked pear with saffron sauce sangria. I will not mince words: it was cold or lukewarm. The cop probably would have been delicious as well rare, but can we speak of a successful cooking when it comes to coolness? Sangria sauce boils down to a wine sauce, however, rather light and subtle, but it is cold and begins to coagulate the plate. I'm boo.
To accompany this disaster, a wine country of the Vicomte Aumelas, Area High Blanville , Rive Gauche. This one, however, pleases me very much. Both fruity and well structured, with rich aromas, in particular of liquorice, a delight. But it gets lonely all alone, especially as it sets its sights on the can and say that although hot, she would have made a worthwhile companion.
Our last dish was a confit rabbit in a fine reduced juice, as clean as the entry that preceded, accompanied with mashed parsnips and sauteed artichokes (the server, as this time, was quite proud to tell us what those vegetables, as if we were fools enough air just to have never even heard of). The intensity of the regrets of our taste buds against the miserable failure of this time are matched by the ecstasy that ours was the last time. Finally
this funeral, we presented our condolences to Gavottin caramel. So they were gavottes out of the box, each with between one layer of vanilla mousse flavored industrial limit.
We were so disgusted that we did not coffee, and I got to eat, sorry, my dear Patoumi with a small Swiss Malo topped with sugar crystals, because to complete the whole ... I was not even full. And because we did not finish our plates ... Would we have each taken three course dessert, as indelicate server told us that it is more convenient to do so, it would not change much: we would have done that day, that increase disappointments.
So what? What is the cause of this wreck? Absence, illness or change of leader usual? New map not rehearsed? Unlucky day? I do not hold, and probably never will hold the explanation, mais il est certain qu'une telle expérience dissuade pour longtemps de se risquer à nouveau en de tels lieux.

L'atelier des Gourmets, 12 rue Nantaise, 02 99 67 53 84

Posté par G.